I have been to a lot of beaches. Greek islands, Thai coastline, the Caribbean. Nothing — and I mean nothing — prepared me for Lucky Bay.
Esperance sits on the southern coast of Western Australia, about 720km southeast of Perth. It takes roughly seven hours to drive there from the city, which is probably why most people skip it. That is a mistake of enormous proportions. Esperance has some of the most extraordinary coastline I've ever seen anywhere in the world, and it does so almost entirely without a crowd.
Lucky Bay
Lucky Bay is the postcard. It consistently ranks as one of Australia's most beautiful beaches, and it earns it — the sand is so white it's almost blinding, the water a shade of turquoise that doesn't look real in photos and somehow looks even more unreal in person. And then there are the kangaroos. Eastern grey kangaroos come down to the beach to rest on the cool sand, completely unfazed by the handful of visitors who are quietly losing their minds at the sight of them. I sat about three metres from a large male for twenty minutes. He didn't even look at me. I felt like I was in a nature documentary.
Cape Le Grand National Park
Lucky Bay sits within Cape Le Grand National Park, which stretches along the coast east of Esperance. The park has multiple beaches — Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove, Rossiter Bay — each one as extraordinary as the last. The Coastal Trail links most of them in a 15km walk that takes in granite peaks, wildflowers, and ocean views that make you stop every five minutes. I did sections of it over two days and could have spent a week.
Frenchman Peak is a 3km return hike that ends at a cave near the summit with a natural window framing the ocean below. It's steep, it's worth every step, and the view from the top is the kind that makes you reassess what you've been doing with your life.
The Town of Esperance
Esperance itself is a small town of about 14,000 people — relaxed, friendly, and pleasantly unspoiled by tourism. The main street has a good bakery, a bottle shop, and a few cafes. The local farmers' market runs on Saturday mornings and is worth a visit for fresh produce and conversation with locals who are genuinely baffled that you've driven seven hours to see their town. ("But it's just beaches," one woman told me. "We've got the best beaches," I told her.)
Practical Notes
- Getting there: Fly into Perth and hire a car — the drive is genuinely beautiful. Alternatively, Rex Airlines has direct flights from Perth to Esperance airport.
- When to visit: October–April for warm weather and swimming. The park is stunning year-round but water temperatures can be chilly outside summer.
- Cape Le Grand entry: You'll need a Parks WA day pass or annual pass to enter the national park. Worth every cent.
- Where to stay: Lucky Bay Camping Area is run by Parks WA and you book sites online. Book months ahead for summer — it fills up fast. The Esperance Seafront Caravan Park is a solid alternative in town.
- Don't miss: Sunrise at Lucky Bay before anyone else arrives. The kangaroos are there in the cool of the morning.
Esperance is the kind of place that makes you want to keep it a secret. But it's too good not to share. Go before everyone else figures it out.