There's a moment on the first morning in the Grampians when the fog sits low in the valleys below and the sandstone ranges turn amber in the early light. I've camped in a lot of places. Nothing quite prepared me for that.
Grampians National Park — Gariwerd in the language of the Djab wurrung and Jardwadjali peoples who have called this country home for thousands of years — sits about three hours northwest of Melbourne in Victoria. It's a landscape of ancient sandstone ranges, cascading waterfalls, wildflowers, and more kangaroos than you can reasonably count. It's also one of the most accessible national parks in Australia, making it a perfect first camping trip for anyone still finding their feet outdoors.
Getting There and Setting Up Camp
We drove from Melbourne in a hired campervan, stopping at Ballarat for petrol and a decent pie. The town of Halls Gap sits right in the heart of the park and is the main base for most visitors — it has a supermarket, a handful of cafes, and a petrol station. Stock up here before heading to your campsite.
We stayed at Brambuk Campground, which is run by Parks Victoria and sits just outside Halls Gap. It has proper facilities — flushing toilets, hot showers, a camp kitchen — which I appreciated after two days on the road. If you want something more remote, Jimmy Creek or Borough Huts are beautiful but more rugged. Go in knowing what you're getting into.
The Walks
The Grampians has over 160km of marked walking tracks ranging from 20-minute strolls to multi-day hikes. We tackled three over four days:
The Pinnacle is the one everyone does — about 7km return from Wonderland car park, with a steep scramble at the end that rewards you with a 360-degree panorama over the entire park. Do it early in the morning before the crowds and you'll have it almost to yourself. The sunrise from up there is extraordinary.
Mackenzie Falls is the largest waterfall in Victoria and completely free to visit. The walk down to the base is short but steep — take your time on the way back up. Swimming is allowed in the pool below the falls, and in late spring the water is cold enough to take your breath away in the best possible way.
Boroka Lookout is an easy 1km return walk to one of the best views in the park. This one is perfect for sunset. We sat on the rocks with cheese and crackers as the light changed from gold to deep red, watching a mob of kangaroos graze in the valley below. I didn't want to leave.
Wildlife
You will see kangaroos. Lots of them. Eastern grey kangaroos are everywhere in the Grampians — in the camping areas, along the roadside, at the lookouts. They're completely relaxed around people, which makes for incredible close-up encounters. We also spotted a koala wedged in a eucalyptus on our first morning (about three metres off the ground and completely unbothered), a wedge-tailed eagle circling above the Pinnacle, and more wallabies than I could count. Bring a good camera.
Practical Notes
- Getting there: 3 hours from Melbourne via the Western Highway. No public transport directly into the park — hire a car or campervan.
- Camping fees: Powered sites from around $40/night at Brambuk. Book in advance through Parks Victoria, especially in spring and during school holidays.
- Best time: September–November for wildflowers. April–June for cooler hiking weather and fewer crowds. Avoid January — it's hot, dry, and fire risk is high.
- Pack: Sturdy hiking boots, sunscreen (the UV in Victoria is no joke), a good headlamp, and layers — nights can be cold year-round in the ranges.
- Fire rules: Always check the current fire danger rating before you go. Open fires are prohibited on Total Fire Ban days.
The Grampians will reset you. Four days in and I felt genuinely restored — cleaner thinking, slower heartbeat, better sleep than I'd had in months. If you're anywhere near Melbourne and haven't made the trip yet, that's the only thing you need to fix this weekend.